Proceed with Caution

The current conflict between the police and the government in Bolivia is making headlines around the world. That some police are striking—and rioting as was the case in La Paz on Friday—may be viewed by opponents of the Morales' government as proof that civil unrest may be on the verge of toppling the standing government, as occurred in 2003. As a guest and bystander I can only say that strikes, blockades, and protests seem to be a part of everyday life here although more frequent in the last few months. During that time I have not felt that my personal safety was at risk except for once. That was about a month ago when I passed through a barricade across the highway toward my teaching site at the men's prison in a nearby town.  The barricade had been erected by students from San Simon University who were protesting in support of Bolivian health care workers who opposed the government's increase in their mandatory number of work hours. Within  about five minute I was surrounded by rapidly retreating student protestors. About the time that I spotted the shoulder-to-shoulder line of police advancing rapidly I also was engulfed in tear gas. I joined the retreat and had no class that day.


I retell this story because it emphasizes my own need to proceed with caution.  Protests are common enough here that I can mistakenly presume I am safe because I do not have a stake in the conflict. The previous incident occurred when the Cochabamba police were acting in support of the government's law that blockades end by 1 pm.  In the current situation, when the police themselves protest the blockades will probably last until they decide to end them or the government decides that it will risk ending them with military support.  In either case, discretion really does seem the better part of valor. I will hold class when there are no lines to cross.

In Cochabamba today there was no violence in the protests in the city center.  In Plaza Principal I listened to a large group of campesinos/as reminding the crowd of the many good things that the Morales' government has done for the poor in Bolivia.  A block away on Heroinas Avenue (one of the main streets in the city center) between Espana and Baptista, traffic was detoured and hand-lettered signs around and in front of the police station proclaimed the demands being made by the police: a living wage (about $300.00 per month), the right to retire with full benefits, and the right to protest if they have grievances (which legally they currently do not have). The protest was peaceful. Small groups of police and/or civilians talked.  Two out-of-uniform policemen spoke to me. They were not threatening.  They simply wanted to state their demands and to emphasize the legitimacy of them. Along with a number of others there, I took a few photos (below), and only one person objected, at which point I stopped taking photos.  I hope the Bolivians can resolve their differences peacefully and that I can discern when it is safe for me and other bystanders to pass through.